6/26 – Day 57
7.7 miles from Stanimals 328 Hostel to Calf Mountain Shelter
Up to this point, whenever we hiked a half day or a nero we would always go the distance to town and spend the remainder of the day relaxing. In Waynesboro, we had a groundbreaking idea: rest in the morning and hike in the evening. Crazy, I know, but we thought we’d give it a go since we felt no need to take another zero and wanted to reach Front Royal, the northern terminus of Shenandoah National Park, by the end of the week.
All the appealing breakfast spots in town were closed on Sundays, so we went shopping in the morning with Happer and Habib to make a breakfast feast. After an hour of preparation, we each ate a king’s portion of pancakes, omelets, hashbrowns, bacon, and strawberries. Then we lounged on the couch all morning watching nature documentaries.
Stanimal’s had a weird setup and was packed with hikers, employees, and those random people that always seem to be wandering around hostels. We got smoothies at Kline’s Dairy Mart then resupplied at a nearby Walmart. Since Shenandoah has restaurants and camp stores every twenty miles or so along the trail, we planned a little lighter for a five day stretch through the park. When we got back to the hostel, the workers who lived on-site were cooking a large dinner for family & friends and shared hot chicken sandwiches with all of the hikers for free! It started to rain heavily, so we had no problem going back for seconds before heading out.
After eating and dragging our feet a while longer, we decided we had rested enough and got a free shuttle back to the trail around 5:00pm. We hiked into SNP and filled out free permits that needed to be hung from outside of our packs. What was silly is that they were flimsy sheets of paper scribbled with pen ink that smeared everywhere when the skies began to spit again. A heavy fog rolled in for the first hour as we worked our way into the park.
The rain ceased before much longer, but we remained cautious stepping on the slick rocks scattered along the trail. There was an abundance of wildlife along the hills of Bear Den Mountain. We spied three whitetail deer, some cottontail rabbits, and a box turtle. We followed forgiving terrain up Little Calf Mountain and came to the first overlook of the Blue Ridge Mountains within the park boundaries. So far, we really like the atmosphere of Shenandoah. We went on a couple more miles to the shelter area. To our surprise, the shelter was full and the area was covered in tents.
6/27 – Day 58
26.3 miles from Calf Mountain Shelter to Pinefield Hut
The trend of sleeping in continued and I think we’ve finally accepted that we prefer evening hiking to early morning hiking. Around 8:00am, we prepared overnight oats using our new favorite recipe: two plain oatmeal packets, a packet of peanut butter, maple syrup, and some berries (picked fresh from the trail when available). We ate breakfast at the shelter picnic table with a guy named Unicorn, who insulted us for cold soaking our oats. We didn’t care, it was the tastiest breakfast we’ve ate on trail yet.
We began hiking close to 9:00am and the rain returned a few miles later. The scenery was veiled in grey mist as we traversed the rolling hills. We passed the time by trying to identify as many different mushrooms as we could, or at least collect a bunch of pictures…
The trail in SNP runs along the famous Skyline Drive and pops in and out of parking lots and campgrounds just about every mile or so. We made it to Blackrock Gap around lunch time and met an older woman giving out premade sandwiches to thru-hikers. She hiked the trail many years and told us about some of her fond memories of the trail and her passion for making her own equipment.
After eating our food and thanking her for the support, we continued north another mile to Blackrock. I scrambled up a large mound of boulders to a view obscured by the clouds in all directions but one. After climbing down, we took another break and the haze was evaporated away before our eyes, giving way to an astounding look at the Shenandoah Valley. What this section lacks in remoteness, it makes up in beauty.
Several miles of pleasant hiking followed, much easier than anything we’ve come across before. By 6:00pm we had hiked twenty miles but still felt energized. We decided to push for the next shelter and make it a true marathon day, something we’ve been wanting to do for a while now. The slowly setting sun among the mountains set the backdrop for one of the most incredible and serene evenings of hiking I’ve ever experienced. We caught glimpses of the golden sky and the calm gradient of pale blue along the distant ridgelines.
We made it to camp just after 9:00pm as darkness settled in. We pitched our tents and ate dinner inside to avoid the bugs. We slept feeling tremendously accomplished, completing our longest days of hiking ever.
6/28 – Day 59
21.4 miles from Pinefield Hut to Bearfence Overlook
We were yet again the last ones to leave camp in the morning, save one older couple and their dog. We made it about four miles up and over Weaver Mountain and to the top of the following hill feeling quite sluggish. I gave Spout her regular dose of pick-me-up medication, then we took an early siesta on a rock outcropping overlooking the mountains under the bluebird day for an hour and a half. When it was time to start hiking again, we put in our earbuds and tried a new feature on Spotify that let us both listen to the same music at once.
Unicorn caught up to us and we walked together for the next several miles, talking about everything from wildlife to politics. The elevation was growing but the trails throughout the park remained wide, well-maintained, and free of excessive rocks and roots, so the hiking was great.
We passed Swift Run Gap and made our way across more hills towards the Lewis Mountain Campground. There was supposedly a camp store that closed at 6:00pm that we gave up on trying to hike twenty miles to before it closed when we took our mid-day nap. At 4:05pm, Spout pointed out that we were only six miles away from the campground and that it was still feasible to make it to the store for ice cream and sandwiches if we hustled.
Prepare ship for lightspeed!
No, no, lightspeed’s too slow. We have to go straight to… ludacris speed!
Averaging about 19 minutes per mile, we cooked it to the campground and arrived with exactly two minutes to spare. Then, we found out the owner was super chill and was planning to stay open until 7:00pm anyway. Either way, we enjoyed the fruits of our labor: some chocolate eclairs and microwavable burgers. We sat and ate with a girl named Rebound who thru-hiked in 2021 and came back to finish the Shenandoahs, which she skipped.
We went another mile along the trail to an overlook along Bearfence Mountain and pitched our tents right by the cliff. We caught another outstanding sunset that made the sky look like a Bob Ross painting. Some things never get old.
6/29 – Day 60
21.6 miles from Bearfence Overlook to Byrds Nest Hut
We were in the mood to go for a hike today. As luck would have it, we were on the Appalachian Trail with literally nothing else to do. We ate breakfast on the overlook before setting off. What followed was a ridiculously level stretch of trail over six miles long. Spout even timed herself running a mile in ten minutes. Not bad considering it was on trail and she had her backpack on!
We took a 0.4 mile blue blaze to the Big Meadow Wayside that opened up to a lovely meadow along Skyline Drive. The wayside had a modest resupply and a diner where we got burgers and blackberry milkshakes. We ate with Unicorn and a group of women we had caught up to: Cinderella, Spice Girl, and Lady V.
It was another beautiful day. Bright blue, sunny skies highlighted the handful of overlooks we passed as we climbed along Franklin Cliffs. Spout and Spice Girl conversed as we trotted along. Later, Unicorn caught up and hiked with us for a bit. Meeting both new and familiar faces in passing is one of the more enjoyable parts of thru-hiking. It feels natural and you get to hear so many fascinating life stories of the interesting folk who find themselves hiking the AT.
Amidst a trance of conversation, we came upon Little Stoney Man Cliffs. It was one of the most spectacular views of the park thus far and we took a quick break next to a puddle with little black tadpoles puttering about. After we climbed down the cliffs, we popped out at a picnic area and saw Cabbage, Morpheus, 50 cal, and Dry Oats. Since they had gotten so far ahead, we figured we would never seem them again. Funny how the trail works sometimes.
We pushed forward to the next shelter and decided to stop for the night at 7:30pm. There, we hung out with some of the group and shared crazy trail stories for the evening. The fireflies were out in large numbers once dusk settled in and I learned that not all parts of the country (or world) get to experience them. It made me appreciate all of the profound beauty that surrounds us everyday that we take for granted.
6/30 – Day 61
21.1 miles from Byrds Nest Hut to Mount Marshall
Spout and I hiked separately for the first four miles out of the shelter, then regrouped at a crossing of Lee Highway at Thorton Gap. We hiked together for several miles, lost in a deep discussion about relationships. We set a strong pace effortlessly. It seems our bodies were now at the point where we could hike and hike and hike and not be hindered by the small aches and pains that used to plague us. Instead of our thoughts being overriden by the physical challenge, we are finally beginning to adapt and can think with a more clear head. Either that, or Shenandoah is just easy.
After eleven miles we reached Elkwallow Wayside. We walked up to the counter and ordered the usual: burger, beer, milkshake. This was the last wayside we would pass in the park, and the regular bathrooms, trash cans, water spigots, resupply points, and restaurants were luxuries that would be sorely missed. We ate lunch with a few other hikers and hit the trail again at 3:30pm.
We climbed a small mountain that ran closely parallel to Skyline Drive. There were more pleasant views of the Shenandoah Valley but the road running directly in front tainted some of them. We filled up on water at the Gravel Springs Hut and decided to knock out Mount Marshall tonight as well. It will be the last peak over 3000′ we summit until we reach Massachusetts. At the peak, there was an epic cliff overlooking the Blue Ridge Mountains. We made camp at a stealth site along the descent.
7/1 – Day 62
9.8 miles from Mount Marshall to Maurertown
After Spout woke up, she slipped her foot into her shoe and felt the crunch of a giant millipede that had wandered in overnight. I think she learned her lesson to shake out your shoes each morning. Other than the realization of a living nightmare, today was supposed to be a great day. We were seeing family for the first time in two months!
We tore down camp and began clambering our way north through the remaining miles of dense deciduous forest in Shenandoah National Park. At one point, a light brown blur leaped in front of the trail and disappeared into the brush on the opposite side. It was far too quick to say with certainty what the animal was, but it was larger than a rabbit and much smaller than a deer. I belive it could have been the elusive bobcat, which happens to be the only large cat to inhabit the region.
It wasn’t long before we reached the park boundary and another great chapter of our hike was concluded. We continued north a few miles to the VA 522 junction and came to a great surprise at the parking lot. My parents, and grandparents, as well as Spout’s brother and fiancée and sister with her friend had all driven down to visit and celebrate our engagement! There was a table setup where they were doing extra special trail magic consisting of hot dogs, fruit, cupcakes, brownies, chips, cold drinks, and more. Seeing the ones I love the most after so long in the woods was an indescribable feeling that meant the world to Spout and me. We sipped champagne and laughed and chatted as other thru-hikers, including Habib, Monty, Spice Girl, Cinderella, Lady V, Unicorn, Snickers, Mirage, Grits, and others came through to share in the magic. What an awesome moment it was.
After we ran out of hotdogs, our families loaded up three cars and drove to an AirBnB in Maurertown, VA, which sits to the northwest of SNP and is about thirty minutes southwest of Front Royal. We had a cute house rented for the weekend with just enough beds for all twelve guests. After us smelly ones had cleaned up, we went to the Spring House Tavern for a lively and delicious dinner. Then, my Grandpa Bill shared some cigars with me, Sam, and Abby. What started as a chill smoking session turned into a party before much longer. Everyone was out on the porch, playing their favorite music, dancing, drinking homemade wine that Grammy brought. All in all, it was a really special night.
7/2 – Day 63
0 miles
It was my birthday and I got the only present I really wanted, a zero day. Most importantly, it was a zero day to spend with my family. We made some breakfast at the AirBnb in Maurertown in the morning, stopped at North Mountain Winery around noon, then drove to Front Royal to go tubing on the Shenandoah River. My dad, Spout, Sam, Abby, Jillian, Aliyah, and I sat in some overinflated, bright green inner tubes on the water that flowed like a lazy river. We had a bag full of Sunway sandwiches and a twelve pack of Yuengling to boot. The river wound its way between the green mountains and we had nearly four hours to relax and get badly sunburnt. It was a good time.
By time we reached the dock three miles downstream, it was 5:00pm and we had worked up an appetite. We arranged to meet Happer at a local brewery and kitchen called Vibrissa. When I first met Happer, the very first week on trail, we were talking with Mouse about our ages and Happer and I realized we shared a birthday. Not just the same day, but the same year too! Believe it or not, we were born within the same hour of one another, then grew up on opposite sides of the world until our unlikely paths crossed nearly twenty-six years later while hiking the Appalachian Trail- a coincidence of astronomically small proportions.
Later that night at the AirBnB, we dug into a cake from Oakmont Bakery and I cracked a couple of Tree House beers my brother had sent me. I couldn’t have asked for a better day. Thank you to everyone who visited or sent kind wishes!
7/3 – Day 64
5.2 miles from Maurertown to Jim & Molly Denton Shelter
Sam, Abby, Jillian, and Aliyah had to head out before 10:00am. My parents and grandparents remained and drove us to Walmart once we were moved out of the AirBnB. We resupplied with food for the next two and a half days. My parents also brought with them some replacement gear, such as new ponchos, Ziploc bags, and my Enlightened Equipment down sleeping quilt that I learned was well worth the extra few ounces for the additional length and warmth. Spout is sticking with her KingCamp blanket for the time being. I also picked up my third pair of shoes, new Lone Peak 6s, which meant my previous pair of Lone Peak 6s made it 572 miles.
We decided to head into Shenandoah National Park for a scenic cruise along Skyline Drive. The overcast skies gave way to bright sunshine once we had entered the park from the Front Royal entrance and began cruising south. We passed dozens of stunning overlooks of both the eastward Blue Ridge Mountains and the westward Shenandoah River Valley.
After thirty minutes of driving, Spout and I checked our map and saw Gravel Springs Gap just ahead, which was a perfect opportunity to show the family where the AT intersected Skyline Drive. We pulled over and went for a short hike to the shelter. After a tenth of a mile, we came across a massive downed tree blocking the trail with a lightly tread bypass through the weeds to the left. To my amazement, my 87-year-old Nana was already scrambling over the 4′ tall tree trunk unassisted. After everyone had made it over, we came to the shelter spur trail down a moderately steep hill with hazardous rocks and roots. I was hesitant to lead them down, but everyone was clearly excited and up for the challenge. So, my parents and four grandparents managed their way along almost a mile round-trip on the Appalachian Trail! It was so much fun to show them what the trail is like and see their reactions to the rugged terrain.
Once we were back in our cars, we stopped for lunch at Elkwallow Wayside. It was like Groundhog Day, since we had just recently stopped when hiking through a few days ago. After lunch, it was time to head back to the trail, so Spout and I could continue our hike.
It was an emotional parting. Having nearly two days that were as close to “normal” as possible seemed to shift our perspective on the trail. The AT has been nothing short of a dream come true, but the isolation affects us in ways we could not have realized beforehand. I am so grateful to have such loving family support us on the hike.
We were already exhausted before starting back out from the road. We crawled along a handful of miles up a modest hill that we gave way too much credit. We passed a few wild strawberry bushes along the way. Before much longer, we reached the Jim & Molly Denton Shelter and were floored by how nice the area was. A pavilion, adirondack chairs, a horseshoe court, a shower, and a bear pole were just a few of the amenities. Cottontail rabbits grazed happily in the fresh cut grass.
Despite planning a much longer day, we decided to claim the absent shelter as our own and spent the evening relaxing on the shelter’s patio. I even packed out a Very HHHazyyy IPA from Tree House to sip as the distant boom of fireworks echoed all around us. It may have been our favorite shelter on the entire trail so far.
Etc.
Warning: I had even less time than usual to proofread this post. Longer days of hiking means less and less time to write and prepare the images. Hope the grammatical mistakes and formatting aren’t too messed up. Thanks again to everyone reading these!
What’s Next?
It’s hard to believe we’ve been in Virginia for over a month. Next up, we will finally reach West Virginia, Harper’s Ferry, and Maryland and the next chapter of our hike begins!
So enjoyed your journaling and all the pictures! Wonderful celebration with your family! 💕💕
Thank you! Hope we can visit you again soon.