8/10 – Day 113
26.1 miles from Mt. Washington to Dispersed Campsite
I slept poorly due to strong winds shaking us around. The alarm rang earlier than usual too. Our plan was to reach Big Lake Youth Camp for breakfast, which required about 4 miles of hiking. We executed well and stepped into the mess hall just as the food was being served. This was a Christian summer camp that graciously invited PCT hikers to join them for meals. We ate hearty meals outside with a few other hikers, including Loopy, Chopsticks, and NTS, whom we started the trail with and finally reconnected.
The day was forecast to be a scorcher. This was especially bad because it coincided with a tremendous, 15 mile burn section. At points, the day felt eerily similar to NorCal. Fortunately, we came across some trail magic again. Cold watermelon and electrolyte mix packets go a long way in the heat.
After the distractions were behind us, we continued up an exposed climb through decimated trees. The trail brought us close to Three Fingered Jack, a knuckled rock formation with streaks of red along its rear.
The afternoon was sluggish and neither of us really wanted to hike, but, you know… There were a few ponds scattered along the burn zone, some more scenic than others. Compared to streams or springs or even lakes, ponds are not the most exciting place to fill our cup, but we needed all the water we could get.
It finally started to cool off around 7:00pm, right when the trail re-entered the forest of live trees. We caught the exact moment the red orb of light slipped beneath the mountains and called the day a wrap. Not far later, a majestic campsite looking beyond to Mt. Jefferson called out to us.
8/11 – Day 114
29.5 miles from Dispersed Campsite to Olallie Lake Resort
In the morning, when it was still below 70°, we enjoyed a chill downhill hike through the trees. Then in the afternoon, when it was above 90°, we suffered through yet another burned area, climbing uphill for a dozen miles. Ripe huckleberries were all over the trail, so Spout did not seem to mind.
We entered Jefferson Park and began a fabulous arc around the volcano. It is really hard to describe something as beautiful over and over with new, colorful adjectives. Why bother? Words on a screen cannot bring a creek or wildflowers to life. The scene of Mt. Jefferson with a rainbow of flowers was truly beautiful like nothing I have ever seen before. It was a snapshot of nature that existed for one particular moment and will never be seen the same way by anyone, including us, ever again.
After clearing a pass on the north side of Mt. Jefferson, we found a splendid view of the mountain, as well as a clear shot of Mt. Hood. The terrain was more tedious than usual and we even traversed another small patch of snow or two that was outlasting the blistering heat.
It does not seem to cool down at all until 7:30pm. From then until morning are prime hiking hours. We chose to push through the burned trees well into the dark. Olallie Lake Resort offered free camping and a small general store that was closed when we pulled up at 10:00pm, but it was nice to know we earned a cup of hot coffee for ourselves the following morning.
8/12 – Day 115
26.7 miles from Olallie Lake Resort to Dispersed Campsite
Our natural wake up time after the late night was 8:00am. Every other tent in the area was already gone and Olallie Lake was still and peaceful. The complex was just a few wooden buildings and a long boat dock. After packing up our gear, we went to the camp store for a supplemental three day resupply, coffee, and a box of six donuts that we split for breakfast.
We did not start hiking until after 9:15am, but had no problem compensating the late start. The trail exited the burned area after a few miles. We were back in the tunnel of trees that tried its best to shield us from the sun. The humidity seemed to grow higher with every mile we progressed into the Pacific Northwest.
The only limitation of our power was Spout’s insatiable quest for huckleberries (the ones in the shade are the plumpest). Beyond bending down to pluck fruit every few yards, we hiked without much of a break until a late afternoon lunch, fifteen miles in.
The day wore on without much notice from either of us. The trail slipped in and out of Warm Springs Reservation land, but was consistently wooded. At length, we pulled off to a random flat spot and pitched our tent on the padded duff.
8/13 – Day 116
24.6 miles from Dispersed Campsite to Timberline Lodge
A horse camp with multiple, clean pit toilets was our first stop in the morning. This took priority over the shimmering, Timothy Lake, which we appreciated from a distance as we passed by. A quarter-mile detour led us to Little Crater Lake. Our expectations were not high, but this lake was actually quite amazing. It was no bigger than a backyard pond, but the water was crystal clear so we could see that it was shockingly deep.
Now more than ever, we are passing SoBo thru-hikers working their way down from Canada. We had a few nice conversations with them at various break spots throughout the day. One commented that most NoBo’s are grumpy at this point, but was pleased that we still had some spunk.
There was a laddered bar at the Barlow Road trailhead. I have lost REDACTED pounds since starting this hike, shedding most of it off my upper body. However, powered by PopTarts and sheer grit, I mustered out ten pull-ups.
Beyond the road, we made a lovely ridge walk with occasional openings to view Mt. Hood. This was the tallest mountain in Oregon at 11,249′.
Just a few days ago, we could just barely make out Mt. Hood’s shape along the horizon. Before we knew it, we were climbing a steep, sandy embankment towards the Timberline Lodge.
The lodge has an unmistakably iconic setting at the base of Mt. Hood. The building itself was fascinating, historic, and masterfully crafted.
We found ourselves lost in a labyrinth within the interior, trying to find the Blue Ox Bar. Spout went to eat at Ram’s Head while I struggled to order a pizza. The cashier had enough and quit in explosive fashion after the couple ahead of me in line placed a complicated order.
After eating, we regrouped in the lobby to enjoy the ambiance (or at least the charging outlets). We had no interest in dropping $350+ for a room when there was free camping up the hill. It was another windy night, but our spot was mostly protected by some trees.
8/14 – Day 117
28.9 miles from Timberline Lodge to Dirt Road
The Timberline Lodge was known for their breakfast buffet. We decided to hang around and pay the price for the rare opportunity to feel stuffed in the middle of a thru-hike. I ate until I felt full, then got another plate. I ate until I felt physically sick, then got one more.
Before leaving the lodge, we asked the front desk if we could hold the axe that Jack Nicholson used to murder his family in “The Shining”. Pretty neat.
The difference of hiking on a full stomach compared to an empty one is night and day. Spout and I both commented that we felt stronger, handled hills with greater ease, and were in a much improved mood.
The PCT followed a short stretch of the Timberline Trail that circumnavigated Mt. Hood. We had regular views of the impressive volcano throughout the morning.
We took another route alternate towards Ramona Falls. The falls reminded me a lot of Amicalola Falls, where the AT approach trail begins in Georgia. The water spread out as it streamed down the rock, forming a wide curtain of wonder. Beyond the waterfall, the side trail took us along a lush and mossy stream. We reconnected to the PCT a mile later, travelling roughly the same distance as the red line.
Several hours of head down hiking followed. We took practically no breaks other than a short lunch at the waterfall and a ten minute sit on a picnic table. We were back in the dense, Oregon woods. Every so often, we caught a glimpse of Mt. Hood to our rear, or Mt. Adams beaconing from Washington.
Every possible campsite along the trail was occupied. Since we were only a day out from Trail Days, this was the bubble. It took a bit of extra hiking in the evening to secure a slanted spot on an abandoned dirt road.
8/15 – Day 118
21.1 miles from Dirt Road to Cascade Lock, OR
It poured overnight, then continued into the morning. A first for us on the PCT, we had to tear down camp in the rain. Clouds of fog laid upon the mountains and formed eerie scenery.
We hiked two miles to the Eagle Creek Trail junction, yet another popular alternate to the official PCT route. It began with a steep descent towards Eagle Creek, then slowly leveled out near the water. The trail proceeded through an epic canyon.
Eagle Creek Trail is to waterfalls as Pittsburgh’s Southside is to bars. Every mile, we passed a waterfall that would be the standout highlight anywhere else.
The trail followed along a sheer cliff, twisting through the canyon. We turned a corner and stopped in our tracks before the most majestic waterfall I have ever seen. Towering and awe-inspiring, Tunnel Falls fell in a narrow cluster.
The surrounding rock was mossy green and it felt like we were in the most exotic of rainforests. The trail literally went through a tunnel behind the falls.
The Eagle Creek Trail was truly special. Scores of day hikers who were brave enough to challenge the rain passed us. At length, we navigated the canyon and popped out at the trailhead. From there, we followed the Gorge Trail for a mile, then connected to a paved bike trail that led into Cascade Locks, OR.
Cascade Locks is an iconic location. It is based on the south shore of the Columbia River, which can be crossed via the Bridge of the Gods. Across the water was the state of Washington. We finally made it!
For now though, we were content on the Oregon side where the annual festival of PCT Days was just kicking off. A tent city sprung up on Thunder Island, where most of the thru-hikers would camp the next two nights.
In a roped off festival ground, countless vendors were setup offering discounted sales, gear repair, new prototypes, and more. Better than any festivities, however, was the opportunity to see tons of hikers that we had met along the trail.
There was a trail magic of hot dogs and free beer that started the party off strong. The rain forced everyone to scatter and canceled a few of the planned events for that evening. Instead, Spout and I went to Whiskey Flats for dinner, then to Buddy’s Arcade for a rowdy DJ set.
It seemed that every time we turned around we saw another hiker we thought we would never meet again. “Oh, we haven’t seen you since Tehachapi!”
Each hiker has had their own, independent journey to this point and we all resynced for one, big celebration. Needless to say, everyone got wasted.
8/16 – Day 119
0 miles in Cascade Lock, OR
Yesterday, I borrowed a little too much happiness from today, but at least I was not alone, nor was I the worst. Hikers stumbled around Cascade Locks like zombies, heading to the Eastwind Drive-in or the Thirsty Coffee Bar. It was not long before Day 2 of PCT Days was underway.
We walked around to the vendors, who were extremely friendly and gave away plenty of swag. Gossamer Gear sent Spout off with a brand new backpack for free. Gear Aid repaired the tear in my pack. We saw companies demoing the bleeding edge of hiking equipment, including CNOC’s Thru Bottle, Alpenglow’s 2.4 gram fuel transfer device, and Kahtoola’s new ultralight Ghost MICROspikes.
We also bought Alpha Direct leggings at a discount from FarPointe. Unfortunately, we did not win any of the raffles for free gear, but it was still an awesome experience.
To wrap up the night, there was a DJ set that had the whole place rocking. Once the official PCT Days festivities concluded, there were after parties at the local bars in town. Once those closed, I am sure hikers found new places to dance deep into the night. Spout and I were back in our tent before midnight.
What’s Next?
We enter the final 500 miles of the PCT through Washington. Many consider Washington their favorite section! In general, it is supposedly more remote and rugged than other sections of the trail.
How’s It Going?
Spout and I both feel great. We have reached the Washington border ahead of schedule and feel comfortable slowing down at this point. We are planning a few more zeroes and will generally hike a few miles less per day.
Gear Changes
- We both replaced our shoes, our fourth pairs of the hike. I have a pair of Altra Lone Peak 9+ and Spout has Altra Lone Peak 9 (wide).
- We replaced our lost Vargo Dig Dog trowel.
- Spout replaced her Gossamer Gear Kumo backpack. Gossamer Gear continues to have the best customer service in the outdoor industry!
- I replaced my Gossamer Gear Thinlight foam pad.
- We both purchased a pair of FarPointe 90gsm Alpha Direct camp pants, however we may send these home when we get the chance.
- Altra gave us free hats that we are carrying until we can send them home.
- Spout replaced one of her water bottles with a CNOC Thru Bottle.
- I added an Alpenglow fuel transfer device.
Notes
- PCT Days cost us $20 each to camp per night on Thunder Island.
- I honestly hacked this post together much faster than normal so I could get caught up, please excuse any typos or sloppy journaling.